Java Pt3: Malioboro Street

INTRODUCTION

After our journey back in time at Parambanan Temple, we headed out next to the infamous Jalan Malioboro (Malioboro Street). Yes, I said infamous. I had a few minutes to Google the place and I thought how bad can it be?

THE JOURNEY

If you wondering Malioboro sound a lot like Marlborough or Melbourne, well you are half-right. 

The street got its name after a Marlboro billboard, hung on the corner building of the same street. I guess it must have been a prominent billboard. Oh, by the way if you are wondering, Marlboro is a name of a famous cigarette company.

Malioboro Street is approximately 30 minutes away from Parambanan Temple.

Point A: Parambanan Temple and Point B: Malioboro Street

Somehow, the journey was much longer as it rained that evening and the streets were pretty jammed up.

As you can see from this satellite image (off Google map), Malioboro is just this one-way street.

Point A shows Malioboro Street

Along this street, it has numerous shop houses, selling everything from clothes, bags, wallets, hats, local crafts, trinkets and souvenirs. 

If that wasn't enough, there are stalls located on the corridor of the shop houses selling pretty much anything.

Do not let the one-way street fool you.

The heavy traffic is full of cars, trucks, motorcycles and the occasional horse carriages. Yes, you read that right. Horse carriages!

Super busy street

In other tourist destinations we seen, the local government would usually block off the traffic if the shopping belt was located along a road.

This is so tourist can shop in convenience and in safety. This is not the case for Malioboro. The street was busy with traffic and people.

THE PLACE

If you missed the other spots to buy your souvenirs, then you can go to this place.

Be warned, local street vendor can smell a tourist a mile away but they should be the least of your concerns. There are pickpockets, street musicians and beggars, all waiting for you and your rupiahs.

Never Ending Asia

Unable to handle the hustle and bustle of the street, we headed off to a mall called Jogja (pronounced yog-yah).

If you missed the signboard, just look out for a building with motorcycles, many motorcycles. If we did not know any better, we say there was some motorcycle convention going on.





Jogja Mall

There was a less of a crowd in the mall and the environment was quaint. Quiet would be a better word to describe it. We looked around the place and found things were much more expensive for the same kind of items on Malioboro Street. There was not much bargaining happening and even if you did, the prices would not go lower.

Our objective was not to shop. It was already 7PM and we have not taken dinner yet. We went looking for something to eat. There was a KFC, a Pizza Hut and numerous other western offerings in the building. However, we wanted to go local and try something well... local. The place we chose was Esteler 77.

Esteler 77

Ayam Cabe Ijo
Actual vs Photoshop-ed

Esteler 77 is local fast food chain, which according to its website has been in business for the past 3 decades. This is rather baffling after tasting the food it had to offer. Stay away!

Ok, so the food isn't that great but at least the coffee must be good, right?

We are in Java, after all.

Two strikes and it all came down to the Es Teler, which the restaurant is named after. Finally, there is a saving a grace.

Find out more about this restaurant through this link
http://www.esteler77.com/

There were two beverages that strike our interest: Teh Botol and Es Teler.

Teh Botol

http://www.sosro.com/en/tehbotol-sosro#.V1fUW9J97MU

It has a sweet jasmine tea taste without the carbonate.

At first, we mistook it for a bottle of Coca-Cola. The entire packaging bears an uncanny resemblance with the famous soft drink.

The staff at Es Teler 77 served us Teh Botol with ice. We guess you should drink it cold.

Teh Botol is available everywhere. Stop at any restaurant or gas station and you are bound to find it.

Now compare it with a bottle of ice cold coke.

Nothing beats the real thing

Es Teler

Es Teler is a blended ice fruit cocktail, first made by created by Murniati Widjaja in 1981 for a competition.

It contains ice, avocado, coconut, jelly, jackfruit and assortment of fruits in a generous serving of coconut milk and sweetened condensed milk, pandan leaf with more sugar and wee bit of salt. 
Although, you are unlikely to taste the salt at all.

Es Teler has a resemblance to Malaysia's cendol drink. Served as dessert, Es Teler is a good to have during a hot day.

Es Teler from Es Teler 77

After Dinner

After a dinner like no other, we decided to try our luck again on Malioboro.

We went bargain hunting for souvenirs and even stopped at an arts exhibition. We took our time here and decided that we would not be able to purchase anything. The cheapest item on display was SGD 50. I am not able to say for sure if this is another tourist trap as the folks were very polite and seemed genuine enough. According to the person who attended to us, it was their final day of exhibition. The works on display were from students of an art academy in Indonesia.

In minutes, we were back on the streets looking for more souvenirs. After some hard bargaining, I got the perfect gifts for friends back home. Unable to buy batik for everyone back home, I settled for key chains shaped like tiny little sandals with batik designs.

Next, we stepped into what seems like clothing store for batik. I found a batik designed t-shirts, which costs about IDR 75,000. The store prices were not negotiable.

Malioboro Street has a reputation for selling fake goods. So do read the DON'T PANIC section on how to shop in Malioboro Street.

Cat and Mouse

While we were trying to get a bargain a beggar, suddenly showed up. We ignored him but he was persistent. We moved on to the next stall and he did not bother us further. However, at the next stall, a gang of street musicians appeared out of nowhere. We ignored them and it only pushed them to sing louder. Unexpectedly, another beggar showed up as well.

So time for Option B, which is move to another stall. It did not stop them from following us. We continued with option B but this time by walking faster and to a stall further away. The beggar gave up but the street musicians refused to let us off.

Finally, we walked into supermarket and they stopped their pursuit. However, they just stood outside the supermarket singing louder and louder, letting us know they are still out there.

We walked down to the basement, completely losing all visual contact with them. Now it was just a waiting game. A few minutes later, when the music stopped, we left the supermarket.

If you are wondering if we got any bargains while seeking refuge in the supermarket. Nope! It was mostly cheap Chinese made products.


THING WE MISSED YOU SHOULD CHECK OUT

There are two notable places if you are looking for arts and crafts while you are in Malioboro Street.

Beringharjo Market

A few review online reveals Beringharjo Market, is the place to be if you are looking Java Batik. We however arrived at Malioboro Street after dark and in the rain, so we did not find this place.

Mirota Batik

Mirota Batik is another place you should visit if you are into arts and batik.

DON'T PANIC

Pickpockets

Pickpockets are abundant. Watch out for your belongings especially wallets when you bump into someone or when negotiating for prices. Bring only the cash you need but if this is unavoidable, just keep enough in your pockets. Never flash cash.

Beggars and Street Musicians

I remember encountering a similar situation earlier this year when I went to Batam. But these guys are much more relentless. Read "Cat and Mouse". They are the essential tourist hunters at this location.

Ignore them. Avoid eye contact and continue to ignore them some more. If they refuse to leave you alone, then move to another stall. If they pursue, then rush to the next one. If it fails, try entering a store or any establishment with a security guard. Wait it out. Avoid paying them, as you do not who else might be watching.

Get Your Receipts

Tourist hunters come in different forms. Sometimes they can be the cashier at the checkout counter. While we were in Jogja Mall, two members of our group paid for item and before leaving asked for a receipt. The cashier provided a receipt but not for what they purchased. She gave them a receipt for something cheaper. 

You would ask, "Why is this, my problem?" Well for one reason, you may be paying more for something, which may cost less. Check your receipts, heck insists on it especially when you are buying in a store. Cashiers have tendency of making side income by not registering your purchase.

However, do not do the same when you are dealing with street vendors though. The rule does not apply, as they are the business owners.


Fake Goods
Remember fake goods are plentiful. So beware of what you are purchasing.

We later realized even established shopping places such as the airport deal in fake goods.

Check labels and quality of the work for the item you are buying. If it feels fake then most likely it is. If you are not sure, just avoid buying it.


Paid Toilets
The toilets at Jogja Mall are charged 1000 rupiah per entry. You pay when you exit.

Bargaining in Malioboro

If you do not like to bargain, then avoid shopping at Malioboro altogether. Prices are steep.

If bargaining is your thing, then start with at least half of the price offered to you. When you do not get it at the price, you want then walk away. They will always call you back. If they do not call you back, then find better prices at another stall.

Food
Jogja Mall is deserted for a reason, so try somewhere else if you want to get good food. A quick search online reveals that most travelers avoid the street food at Malioboro as it is rather mediocre and sanitation may be an issue.

Traffic
A simple rule in Indonesia, the bigger the vehicle the more rights you will have. So, pedestrians rank lowest in the food chain.

Be careful when crossing roads. Look both ways even though this is a one-way street and watch out for horse manure and traffic.

MY FINAL THOUGHTS

If you like, the hustle bustle of a lively street, then this is the place you want to be.

Not having to check out the batik collection at Beringharo Market, I really cannot find anything nice about this place. I say look for a different place to eat or head on back to your hotel early to rest early. This is one place you can do without.