Java Pt3: Malioboro Street

INTRODUCTION

After our journey back in time at Parambanan Temple, we headed out next to the infamous Jalan Malioboro (Malioboro Street). Yes, I said infamous. I had a few minutes to Google the place and I thought how bad can it be?

THE JOURNEY

If you wondering Malioboro sound a lot like Marlborough or Melbourne, well you are half-right. 

The street got its name after a Marlboro billboard, hung on the corner building of the same street. I guess it must have been a prominent billboard. Oh, by the way if you are wondering, Marlboro is a name of a famous cigarette company.

Malioboro Street is approximately 30 minutes away from Parambanan Temple.

Point A: Parambanan Temple and Point B: Malioboro Street

Somehow, the journey was much longer as it rained that evening and the streets were pretty jammed up.

As you can see from this satellite image (off Google map), Malioboro is just this one-way street.

Point A shows Malioboro Street

Along this street, it has numerous shop houses, selling everything from clothes, bags, wallets, hats, local crafts, trinkets and souvenirs. 

If that wasn't enough, there are stalls located on the corridor of the shop houses selling pretty much anything.

Do not let the one-way street fool you.

The heavy traffic is full of cars, trucks, motorcycles and the occasional horse carriages. Yes, you read that right. Horse carriages!

Super busy street

In other tourist destinations we seen, the local government would usually block off the traffic if the shopping belt was located along a road.

This is so tourist can shop in convenience and in safety. This is not the case for Malioboro. The street was busy with traffic and people.

THE PLACE

If you missed the other spots to buy your souvenirs, then you can go to this place.

Be warned, local street vendor can smell a tourist a mile away but they should be the least of your concerns. There are pickpockets, street musicians and beggars, all waiting for you and your rupiahs.

Never Ending Asia

Unable to handle the hustle and bustle of the street, we headed off to a mall called Jogja (pronounced yog-yah).

If you missed the signboard, just look out for a building with motorcycles, many motorcycles. If we did not know any better, we say there was some motorcycle convention going on.





Jogja Mall

There was a less of a crowd in the mall and the environment was quaint. Quiet would be a better word to describe it. We looked around the place and found things were much more expensive for the same kind of items on Malioboro Street. There was not much bargaining happening and even if you did, the prices would not go lower.

Our objective was not to shop. It was already 7PM and we have not taken dinner yet. We went looking for something to eat. There was a KFC, a Pizza Hut and numerous other western offerings in the building. However, we wanted to go local and try something well... local. The place we chose was Esteler 77.

Esteler 77

Ayam Cabe Ijo
Actual vs Photoshop-ed

Esteler 77 is local fast food chain, which according to its website has been in business for the past 3 decades. This is rather baffling after tasting the food it had to offer. Stay away!

Ok, so the food isn't that great but at least the coffee must be good, right?

We are in Java, after all.

Two strikes and it all came down to the Es Teler, which the restaurant is named after. Finally, there is a saving a grace.

Find out more about this restaurant through this link
http://www.esteler77.com/

There were two beverages that strike our interest: Teh Botol and Es Teler.

Teh Botol

http://www.sosro.com/en/tehbotol-sosro#.V1fUW9J97MU

It has a sweet jasmine tea taste without the carbonate.

At first, we mistook it for a bottle of Coca-Cola. The entire packaging bears an uncanny resemblance with the famous soft drink.

The staff at Es Teler 77 served us Teh Botol with ice. We guess you should drink it cold.

Teh Botol is available everywhere. Stop at any restaurant or gas station and you are bound to find it.

Now compare it with a bottle of ice cold coke.

Nothing beats the real thing

Es Teler

Es Teler is a blended ice fruit cocktail, first made by created by Murniati Widjaja in 1981 for a competition.

It contains ice, avocado, coconut, jelly, jackfruit and assortment of fruits in a generous serving of coconut milk and sweetened condensed milk, pandan leaf with more sugar and wee bit of salt. 
Although, you are unlikely to taste the salt at all.

Es Teler has a resemblance to Malaysia's cendol drink. Served as dessert, Es Teler is a good to have during a hot day.

Es Teler from Es Teler 77

After Dinner

After a dinner like no other, we decided to try our luck again on Malioboro.

We went bargain hunting for souvenirs and even stopped at an arts exhibition. We took our time here and decided that we would not be able to purchase anything. The cheapest item on display was SGD 50. I am not able to say for sure if this is another tourist trap as the folks were very polite and seemed genuine enough. According to the person who attended to us, it was their final day of exhibition. The works on display were from students of an art academy in Indonesia.

In minutes, we were back on the streets looking for more souvenirs. After some hard bargaining, I got the perfect gifts for friends back home. Unable to buy batik for everyone back home, I settled for key chains shaped like tiny little sandals with batik designs.

Next, we stepped into what seems like clothing store for batik. I found a batik designed t-shirts, which costs about IDR 75,000. The store prices were not negotiable.

Malioboro Street has a reputation for selling fake goods. So do read the DON'T PANIC section on how to shop in Malioboro Street.

Cat and Mouse

While we were trying to get a bargain a beggar, suddenly showed up. We ignored him but he was persistent. We moved on to the next stall and he did not bother us further. However, at the next stall, a gang of street musicians appeared out of nowhere. We ignored them and it only pushed them to sing louder. Unexpectedly, another beggar showed up as well.

So time for Option B, which is move to another stall. It did not stop them from following us. We continued with option B but this time by walking faster and to a stall further away. The beggar gave up but the street musicians refused to let us off.

Finally, we walked into supermarket and they stopped their pursuit. However, they just stood outside the supermarket singing louder and louder, letting us know they are still out there.

We walked down to the basement, completely losing all visual contact with them. Now it was just a waiting game. A few minutes later, when the music stopped, we left the supermarket.

If you are wondering if we got any bargains while seeking refuge in the supermarket. Nope! It was mostly cheap Chinese made products.


THING WE MISSED YOU SHOULD CHECK OUT

There are two notable places if you are looking for arts and crafts while you are in Malioboro Street.

Beringharjo Market

A few review online reveals Beringharjo Market, is the place to be if you are looking Java Batik. We however arrived at Malioboro Street after dark and in the rain, so we did not find this place.

Mirota Batik

Mirota Batik is another place you should visit if you are into arts and batik.

DON'T PANIC

Pickpockets

Pickpockets are abundant. Watch out for your belongings especially wallets when you bump into someone or when negotiating for prices. Bring only the cash you need but if this is unavoidable, just keep enough in your pockets. Never flash cash.

Beggars and Street Musicians

I remember encountering a similar situation earlier this year when I went to Batam. But these guys are much more relentless. Read "Cat and Mouse". They are the essential tourist hunters at this location.

Ignore them. Avoid eye contact and continue to ignore them some more. If they refuse to leave you alone, then move to another stall. If they pursue, then rush to the next one. If it fails, try entering a store or any establishment with a security guard. Wait it out. Avoid paying them, as you do not who else might be watching.

Get Your Receipts

Tourist hunters come in different forms. Sometimes they can be the cashier at the checkout counter. While we were in Jogja Mall, two members of our group paid for item and before leaving asked for a receipt. The cashier provided a receipt but not for what they purchased. She gave them a receipt for something cheaper. 

You would ask, "Why is this, my problem?" Well for one reason, you may be paying more for something, which may cost less. Check your receipts, heck insists on it especially when you are buying in a store. Cashiers have tendency of making side income by not registering your purchase.

However, do not do the same when you are dealing with street vendors though. The rule does not apply, as they are the business owners.


Fake Goods
Remember fake goods are plentiful. So beware of what you are purchasing.

We later realized even established shopping places such as the airport deal in fake goods.

Check labels and quality of the work for the item you are buying. If it feels fake then most likely it is. If you are not sure, just avoid buying it.


Paid Toilets
The toilets at Jogja Mall are charged 1000 rupiah per entry. You pay when you exit.

Bargaining in Malioboro

If you do not like to bargain, then avoid shopping at Malioboro altogether. Prices are steep.

If bargaining is your thing, then start with at least half of the price offered to you. When you do not get it at the price, you want then walk away. They will always call you back. If they do not call you back, then find better prices at another stall.

Food
Jogja Mall is deserted for a reason, so try somewhere else if you want to get good food. A quick search online reveals that most travelers avoid the street food at Malioboro as it is rather mediocre and sanitation may be an issue.

Traffic
A simple rule in Indonesia, the bigger the vehicle the more rights you will have. So, pedestrians rank lowest in the food chain.

Be careful when crossing roads. Look both ways even though this is a one-way street and watch out for horse manure and traffic.

MY FINAL THOUGHTS

If you like, the hustle bustle of a lively street, then this is the place you want to be.

Not having to check out the batik collection at Beringharo Market, I really cannot find anything nice about this place. I say look for a different place to eat or head on back to your hotel early to rest early. This is one place you can do without.

Java Pt2: Journey Back In Time At Prambanan Temple

THE JOURNEY




After our lunch at Satrito restaurant we headed out to Prambanan Temple.

Satria was literally this restaurant in the middle of nowhere. Food was nothing to write home about but the view of the green paddy fields kind of puts your mind at ease.

So far all we seen since leaving the airport were
paddy fields on both sides of this two way narrow road.

Often we see yellow-benzene-in-a-bottle sold everywhere. Benzene is the local lingo for petrol or gasoline. This being very useful especially petrol or gas stations are not plentiful in these parts.
Once awhile there will be these magnificent bungalows just along this quiet road.

Quick check on Google reveals the temple site is approximately 8 km or 11 minutes by car.

But the bus ride, of course felt much longer with the traffic leaving the airport plus the little lunch detour we took.

Some 30 minutes later we arrived at the temple site.

A big signboard to tell you are at the right place.

As we approached the temple site, there were small stalls, restaurants and hotels along the road.

After the bus was parked, we walked towards the visitor center.

Parking is IDR15,000 on entry just in case you are wondering.

There is a huge signboard just outside the visitor center, so you can't miss it.

Visitor center

Like any good Asian tourist, we immediately whipped out our cameras and started clicking away.

Since we were on a package tour, I am not sure how much is it to enter the temple site but a quick check online reveals IDR171,000 for foreign adults.

I believe there is an option for tour guides (at IDR75,000) which is not included as part of the entry costs.
However I am not recommending tour guides, though. (see the DON'T PANIC section for why)

Prices are taken from this website
http://www.borobudurpark.co.id/temple/prambananTemple

It was the school holidays so there were many children coming to visit. Some have never seen a foreigner especially Caucasians. So if you are Caucasian, then curious but cute little faces will stare and might even want to take a photo with you!

Now if you been to any part of Indonesia, visiting a temple be it Buddhist or a Hindu temple, you are required to wear the sarong. It is a must, so get use to it.
Don't be that difficult tourist. Really, don't!


History Lesson

Now this entry just wouldn't be complete without getting a bit of the history lesson.
So I am gonna try my best giving the most summarized version of the subject that most of readers may of slept through during their school years.

So what can you expect visiting a temple 1200 years old?
To begin let's start with a little history lesson.

Prambanan Temple also known as Candi Rara Jonggrang (local lingo Candi means Temple) is a 9th century Hindu temple built during the Mataram Kingdom. But the temple itself is named after the Prambanan village located nearby.

The temple complex was first built in dedication of Lord Shiva (the Hindu God of Destruction). It is probably why the Shiva temple is much larger compared to the Lord Brahma (the Hindu God of Creation) and Lord Vishnu (the Hindu God of Preservation).

There are 6 important temples on the site and according to our tour guide, 3 major and 3 minor temples.

The 3 major temples houses the trimurthi gods (Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu) while the 3 minor temples represent the vahana (Hamsa, Nandi and Garuda).

Our quirky but entertaining guide try put it in terms of Chinese beliefs, where the 3 major temples represent Heaven (天/ Tian) while 3 minor temple represent Earth (土/ Tu).

This aerial view is magnificent.
There are 3 major temple which faces the three minor temples.

A quick check on Wikipedia shows a total of 240 temples.

• 3 Trimurti temples dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma.
• 3 Vahana temples dedicated to Nandi, Garuda, and Hamsa.
• 2 Apit temples are temples located between the rows of Trimurti and Vahana temples north and south entrance.
• 4 Kelir temples are four small temples located on 4 cardinal directions.
• 4 Patok temples are four small temples located on 4 corners of inner zone.
• 224 Pervara temples are arranged in 4 concentric square rows with numbers of temples from inner row to outer row are 44, 52, 60, and 68.

This is how the temple would of looked back in the day.
The photo is taken at the visitor center just before walking into to visit the temple.

The ruins that you will see as you walk into the temple grounds are the 224 Pervara temples. History has it the temple was abandoned during the 10th century. A major earthquake in the 16th century damaged the temple and left it in ruins. But still...what a view!

Prambanan Temple. This photo doesn't do justice to what I saw that afternoon.

The temple was first re-discovered in the 19th century.  Reconstruction and restoration started in the early 20th century and is still on-going. The place became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991.

Just before entering the temple site, do take a few minutes to read on the restoration efforts to save this historic place.

Ramayana Epic Poem.
Can you find the monkeys?

Take your time to look at the intricate carvings
on walls of each temple.

As one walks in clockwise circle around the temple, the carvings actually tell a story based on a Hindu epic.

Nandi the bull

This is statue of a bull is found in one of smaller temples facing the trimurthi temples.

The smaller temples represent the vahana.

The bull's name is Nandi. And he is the vahana for Shiva.





I was able to take photos of 2 out of 3 Trimurthi. Shiva was a no-go as the inner sanctum of the temple is off limits. The inner sanctum is fenced off due restoration works and safety reasons.
Everyone entering the Shiva temple are also required to wear a safety helmet.

Vishnu (left) and Brahma (right)

THINGS WE MISSED YOU SHOULD CHECK OUT

As it rained, we dashed back to the bus ' leave.
There were a few things which we missed which is recommended.

Ramayana Ballet

As we stood facing west of the Vishnu temple, there appeared a large open air stage across a river. There stood a large printed sign board saying "Ramayana Ballet".

The Ramayana Ballet is a dance show with narration re-telling the epic poem of Ramayana.
It takes on a Javanese version. Names are changed but relatively it is the same story.
There is love, good versus evil, adventure, friendship, everything you can find in a modern day drama.

The shows are weather dependent and it is only shown on certain days.
Check out this website for more details.

http://www.borobudurpark.com/temple/ramayanaPrambanan

Many whom have watched it, say it is worth the money.

A few tips:

• Make sure you have a cab waiting for you. As the place is quite far from any mode of transport, you may get stranded. If possible look for a package which includes transport back to your hotel.
• Take the IDR 200,000 seats (special seating). The Class 1 seating are stone seats are not comfortable for the 2 hour show.
• Consider going when there is a full moon for open air theater. The show is said to be even more spectacular under the moon light.
• Show starts from 730PM to 930PM. But the Prambanan temple site closes at 530PM. So do the math.
• Open air means insects. So repellant, long sleeves and long pants are advised.

Prambanan Museum

Opened from 6AM to 5PM daily, the Prambanan Museum is located north just outside the temple grounds.

If you can't find the place, just ask the friendly folks where you drop off your sarong.
Best part entry is free.

Do check out the website for more info.
http://www.wonderfuljogja.com/visiting-prambanan-museum/

The museum is small so don't gripe if you don't see the mummies of King Tut is on display.
Since you are already in this part of the world, just check it out.


Food Stalls and Souvenir Bazaar

There are many food stalls at Prambanan temple.
As usual if you have a tender stomach, don't ever attempt street food, anywhere.
There will be more opportunity to check out other food places in this trip, so we didn't bother to stop.

The souvenir bazaar is something we would of enjoyed checking out, well at least for me, though. The place seemed more friendly compared to the likes of Malioboro Street where prices are cut throat and constant disturbance of beggars and street musicians.

Everything from t-shirts, key chain, batik were on display. Do check it out and drop a comment.


DON'T PANIC

Tour Guides

I would NOT recommend getting a tour guide here as the quality of guides here are pretty bad. Some require a written script to tell you things you can already observe. Others give their own take on the history and this is not necessarily a good thing. Try reading up a little before coming.


Sarong Wearing

Wearing of sarongs are required for both men and women. Get one at the visitor center. If you didn't take one, there is another small kiosk just before entering the temple grounds.

It's provided free but you have to return it. If does gets loose, just take two corners of it and tie it in a simple knot at your waist level. The friendly folks at the visitor center or the kiosk can do this for you. Just remember when in Rome, do what the Romans do.

Caucasian Tourist

During this trip, curious little children started staring at a few Caucasian folks.
They look pretty intrigued and even ask to take photos with some of them.

The children are pretty much harmless. They are just curious as they never seen any Caucasians before. Be polite and feel like a movie star.


Weather

The temple grounds is very sandy. For awhile it may even feel like you are visiting the Pyramids. The fact the sand is black makes it hot even on your soles.

Beat the weather by coming in the morning. Wear long sleeves, a hat and sunscreen. Check the latest weather forecast. The rain can totally shorten your trip.


The Shiva Temple And Flash Light

"Take this may it shine even in dark places."

While both the Vishnu and Brahma temple are in relatively safe condition, the Shiva temple is not. So visitors are required to wear safety helmets prior to entering. There is a queue which usually moves fast and each person is allotted 15-20 minutes to visit the Shiva temple grounds.

Bring a flash light, you need to illuminate the insides of the temple which is really dark even during the day. The Shiva temple houses the most number of statues including that of Ganesha. So a flash light will allow you to see more.


The Tourist Hunter

Now you may be wondering what do I mean by Tourist Hunter. Well anyone who are constantly on the look out for tourist and hound them to buy a service, souvenir or anything in particular.

Throughout this entire journey, I have seen a lot enthusiastic locals who constantly bug you to buy a souvenir. But here they seem pretty sedated. Maybe because it has been a long day and they pretty much worn out.

If you have no plans to buy, don't be curious because it is entirely impossible to shake them off. If you something strikes your fancy, always bargain. Prices are very negotiable. Negotiate from half the price they offered.

If they don't give the price you want, walk away. They will always come back. Remember be polite but firm. These guys are very persistent in selling you something.


Tipping Culture

Usually there is a tipping culture everywhere in Indonesia. People ask for tips even if you just them like 3 seconds.

There is no wrong or right here. If you like the service then tip them. If you do it then do it subtly and never flash cash. Keep your tipping cash safely somewhere you can reach for it.

MY FINAL THOUGHTS

I think it is definitely worth a visit. But I soon realize the experience is not much different from one temple to another. The reason being cultural similarity between Buddhism or Hinduism. If you had little time, Borobudur would be a better pick.