Java Pt5: The Black Sands of Mount Bromo

INTRODUCTION

Ask anyone in Singapore and probably half of them will reply they been to Mount Bromo.

It is probably one of the most visited places in Indonesia besides Bali.

The Bromo pilgrimage maybe a little overrated but you never know unless you try.

The sunrise is said to be stunning and attracts shutterbugs all year long.

The mountain erupted as recent as 2011. Danger has its attraction.

After what seemed like forever, we arrived at our hotel, The Lava View Lodge.

The van drive from the airport with one stop took almost 3 hours.

Half of it took us through steep, winding mountain roads. The tight space in the van did not help.

We were tired, crammed like sardines and it was cold. The time was 1130PM (local time).

THE JOURNEY

Taking the route from Surabaya, this was not an easy journey. It has narrow, winding and steep roads up to the mountain.

This is a useful mini-map from Lava View Lodge Hotel

THE STAY

Lava View Lodge Hotel

On this side of the mountain, the Lava View Lodge is a five-star accommodation. A former Indonesian president stayed here on his visit to Bromo, so we were told. However, what we found in our rooms were very basic.

TV which didn't work and two cushion chairs in the inside

Beds which were dusty and floor which was really sticky.

Two chairs to enjoy the view of the reception building.

The night was really cold and there wasn't hot water. We found out the next morning the hot water wasn't turned on. A simple call to the receptionist fixed that instantly.

Electric hot water but it was not working when we needed it the most.

A sink and mirror with an extremely sticky floor.

However, the best part of the hotel was the view, which we only noticed during the day. Mount Bromo was just at our doorstep.

Top: Reception building
Bottom: Hotel rooms

Bromo and Batok at our doorstep

The prices for the room is also not cheap. These are the prices as of 2013.

Standard Superior Twin/ Double costs IDR 634,000

Deluxe Double & Twin costs IDR 750,000

THE PLACE

Sunrise at Mount Pananjakan

3AM was by far the earliest we had to be up and running in the morning. The breakfast consisted of coffee, hard-boiled eggs, couple of sandwiches and a piece of fruit. All of which was much too heavy for 3AM.

In the next few minutes, we were loaded into a back of a Jeep in numbers of four. Then we were literally "spirited away" to Pananjakan. The drive was fun, I would say if it were not for my breakfast. I was nauseous and almost ready to puke. We were driving fast, bumping up and down, then at some points I could have sworn we were doing the "choku dori" drift.

Mount Pananjakan (or Penanjakan) is the viewpoint where everyone comes to see the sunrise.

Pananjakan stands at 2700 metres higher than Mount Bromo itself. It was cold and you need something warm to wear up here.

Our drifting Jeep arrived at the viewpoint parking. It was dark but we could see lights of other approaching Jeeps and motorcycles. The motorcycles are actually taxis bringing tourists called "ojek". As we walked towards the viewpoint, there were coffee shops to our right and there were hawkers/ touts loaning cold weather gears. It was needless to say, the place was crowded.

The viewpoint was also crowded. Shutterbugs of every level tried to stand at the very edge of the cliff to get a snap of the sunrise. Some risking life and limb by climbing over the safety barrier.

The sun does not rise in the direction of Mount Bromo but Mount Semeru. There are several mountains visible from this viewpoint including Mount Batok. The mist clears away and you will get full view of the plains down below and the next location we have to go.

Here are some photos of the sunrise. These are not my best photos in the dark.

Sea of Sands, Ponies and Staircase to Heaven

As the sun rises and mist clears, the crowd also dispersed. We spent a good an hour and half here. It is time to go to our next point. We walked back to our Jeep in fours and this time we drove slowly. In 5 minutes or so, we assembled on the sea of black sands of Bromo. The sand is black because it is made of volcanic sand. On a hot day, you can feel the heat of the earth underneath your feet.

The first thing I noticed (besides the obvious black sand, of course) are the ponies. I suddenly had the feeling that I am in some mountain range of South America. The ponies, to be exact, all had Spanish, names including names like Pablo, Alberto etc.

The jockeys will give you a ticket for a small price of IDR 30,000 to 50,000 for a return trip to the staircase leading to the peak of Bromo. It is advisable not to loose that ticket. The jockeys get annoyed if you do. This was my first time on a horse and I keep getting that weird feeling I am going fall off. This is quite normal especially if the ride is steep.

The pony ride stopped at the foot of Bromo's crater. The jockey and pony will wait for you here to take you back. The staircase will bring you to the rim of the crater. Remember your ticket.

On the rim of the crater, there are many tourists standing really close to the edge. This is unnecessary. The site or view of the crater itself is not really something you write home.

Smoke constantly comes from the crater. If you observe carefully, a lot of offerings rice and flowers lay scattered in the crater. Legend has it a queen who was childless started the tradition. Offerings rice and flowers were thrown into the mountain to improve fertility.

Smoke on water

Mount Batok has a unique terrain. It has terraces that start from the top all the way to the foot of the mountain. Batok is non-active volcano peak covered in Casuarina trees.

DON'T PANIC

Breakfast

There are times when you think you may run out of energy and you decide that eating 3AM in the morning would be a good idea. Trust me when I say it is not. I found this out the hard way.

Advice: Try something light like coffee and a snack bar. Take your breakfast during your usual hours to avoid nausea.

Pananjakan Viewpoint

There is a long queue at the toilet and do go before you come here. There are many coffee shops the way up here. Food choices are limited though. They can provide cup of hot coffee or some noodles.

It is cold here. Although there are, hawkers/touts that rent out warm clothing, you do not know where it has been. Bring some warm clothing. You will not need it for long especially if you are hiking.

THINGS I MISSED THAT YOU SHOULD CHECK OUT

Malang Route

There are two ways of getting to Mount Bromo. The first route was through Surabaya, which I took. There is another route to check out is through Malang.

Various tour groups recommend Malang as there is a beach, theme park and it costs a lot less than staying on top of Mount Bromo.

Pony Rides

Touts handle the ponies and like anywhere else in Indonesia, very aggressive salespersons.

A jockey will follow you guiding the pony but you can choose not to take the pony and just slowly walk. The hike itself is quite easy but I see most tourist struggle at the staircase.

Warm Clothing

Most part of this entire trip did not require for warm clothing. You could bring a sweater, pair of disposable gloves and do the clothes layering technique to keep warm. A face mask and a broad rim hat helps.

The Hindu Temple

Before reaching the foot of Bromo, there is a Hindu temple Pura Luhur Poten. I don't have much information about this temple except that it was built for the purpose of worshipping the mountain god. The practice of throwing flower and rice (which you will find hawkers selling at Bromo) started here.

Pura Luhur Poten Temple viewed from Bromo

Madakaripura Waterfall

Located at Kecamatan Lumbang, Probolinggo, Madakaripura is one of the waterfalls in the Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park. It takes about 1 hour or more to hike from Tongas.

The view is said to be amazing.

Seruni Point Hike

There is hiking option, which you could take from Seruni Village. Start as early as 2.45AM depending on the sunrise time. The trail advised by many is quite hard.

MY FINAL THOUGHTS

Don't put Bromo on your bucket list. Personally, I think the Ijen crater had more to offer and the sunrise in Borobudur was much more beautiful.

Java Pt2: Journey Back In Time At Prambanan Temple

THE JOURNEY




After our lunch at Satrito restaurant we headed out to Prambanan Temple.

Satria was literally this restaurant in the middle of nowhere. Food was nothing to write home about but the view of the green paddy fields kind of puts your mind at ease.

So far all we seen since leaving the airport were
paddy fields on both sides of this two way narrow road.

Often we see yellow-benzene-in-a-bottle sold everywhere. Benzene is the local lingo for petrol or gasoline. This being very useful especially petrol or gas stations are not plentiful in these parts.
Once awhile there will be these magnificent bungalows just along this quiet road.

Quick check on Google reveals the temple site is approximately 8 km or 11 minutes by car.

But the bus ride, of course felt much longer with the traffic leaving the airport plus the little lunch detour we took.

Some 30 minutes later we arrived at the temple site.

A big signboard to tell you are at the right place.

As we approached the temple site, there were small stalls, restaurants and hotels along the road.

After the bus was parked, we walked towards the visitor center.

Parking is IDR15,000 on entry just in case you are wondering.

There is a huge signboard just outside the visitor center, so you can't miss it.

Visitor center

Like any good Asian tourist, we immediately whipped out our cameras and started clicking away.

Since we were on a package tour, I am not sure how much is it to enter the temple site but a quick check online reveals IDR171,000 for foreign adults.

I believe there is an option for tour guides (at IDR75,000) which is not included as part of the entry costs.
However I am not recommending tour guides, though. (see the DON'T PANIC section for why)

Prices are taken from this website
http://www.borobudurpark.co.id/temple/prambananTemple

It was the school holidays so there were many children coming to visit. Some have never seen a foreigner especially Caucasians. So if you are Caucasian, then curious but cute little faces will stare and might even want to take a photo with you!

Now if you been to any part of Indonesia, visiting a temple be it Buddhist or a Hindu temple, you are required to wear the sarong. It is a must, so get use to it.
Don't be that difficult tourist. Really, don't!


History Lesson

Now this entry just wouldn't be complete without getting a bit of the history lesson.
So I am gonna try my best giving the most summarized version of the subject that most of readers may of slept through during their school years.

So what can you expect visiting a temple 1200 years old?
To begin let's start with a little history lesson.

Prambanan Temple also known as Candi Rara Jonggrang (local lingo Candi means Temple) is a 9th century Hindu temple built during the Mataram Kingdom. But the temple itself is named after the Prambanan village located nearby.

The temple complex was first built in dedication of Lord Shiva (the Hindu God of Destruction). It is probably why the Shiva temple is much larger compared to the Lord Brahma (the Hindu God of Creation) and Lord Vishnu (the Hindu God of Preservation).

There are 6 important temples on the site and according to our tour guide, 3 major and 3 minor temples.

The 3 major temples houses the trimurthi gods (Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu) while the 3 minor temples represent the vahana (Hamsa, Nandi and Garuda).

Our quirky but entertaining guide try put it in terms of Chinese beliefs, where the 3 major temples represent Heaven (天/ Tian) while 3 minor temple represent Earth (土/ Tu).

This aerial view is magnificent.
There are 3 major temple which faces the three minor temples.

A quick check on Wikipedia shows a total of 240 temples.

• 3 Trimurti temples dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma.
• 3 Vahana temples dedicated to Nandi, Garuda, and Hamsa.
• 2 Apit temples are temples located between the rows of Trimurti and Vahana temples north and south entrance.
• 4 Kelir temples are four small temples located on 4 cardinal directions.
• 4 Patok temples are four small temples located on 4 corners of inner zone.
• 224 Pervara temples are arranged in 4 concentric square rows with numbers of temples from inner row to outer row are 44, 52, 60, and 68.

This is how the temple would of looked back in the day.
The photo is taken at the visitor center just before walking into to visit the temple.

The ruins that you will see as you walk into the temple grounds are the 224 Pervara temples. History has it the temple was abandoned during the 10th century. A major earthquake in the 16th century damaged the temple and left it in ruins. But still...what a view!

Prambanan Temple. This photo doesn't do justice to what I saw that afternoon.

The temple was first re-discovered in the 19th century.  Reconstruction and restoration started in the early 20th century and is still on-going. The place became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991.

Just before entering the temple site, do take a few minutes to read on the restoration efforts to save this historic place.

Ramayana Epic Poem.
Can you find the monkeys?

Take your time to look at the intricate carvings
on walls of each temple.

As one walks in clockwise circle around the temple, the carvings actually tell a story based on a Hindu epic.

Nandi the bull

This is statue of a bull is found in one of smaller temples facing the trimurthi temples.

The smaller temples represent the vahana.

The bull's name is Nandi. And he is the vahana for Shiva.





I was able to take photos of 2 out of 3 Trimurthi. Shiva was a no-go as the inner sanctum of the temple is off limits. The inner sanctum is fenced off due restoration works and safety reasons.
Everyone entering the Shiva temple are also required to wear a safety helmet.

Vishnu (left) and Brahma (right)

THINGS WE MISSED YOU SHOULD CHECK OUT

As it rained, we dashed back to the bus ' leave.
There were a few things which we missed which is recommended.

Ramayana Ballet

As we stood facing west of the Vishnu temple, there appeared a large open air stage across a river. There stood a large printed sign board saying "Ramayana Ballet".

The Ramayana Ballet is a dance show with narration re-telling the epic poem of Ramayana.
It takes on a Javanese version. Names are changed but relatively it is the same story.
There is love, good versus evil, adventure, friendship, everything you can find in a modern day drama.

The shows are weather dependent and it is only shown on certain days.
Check out this website for more details.

http://www.borobudurpark.com/temple/ramayanaPrambanan

Many whom have watched it, say it is worth the money.

A few tips:

• Make sure you have a cab waiting for you. As the place is quite far from any mode of transport, you may get stranded. If possible look for a package which includes transport back to your hotel.
• Take the IDR 200,000 seats (special seating). The Class 1 seating are stone seats are not comfortable for the 2 hour show.
• Consider going when there is a full moon for open air theater. The show is said to be even more spectacular under the moon light.
• Show starts from 730PM to 930PM. But the Prambanan temple site closes at 530PM. So do the math.
• Open air means insects. So repellant, long sleeves and long pants are advised.

Prambanan Museum

Opened from 6AM to 5PM daily, the Prambanan Museum is located north just outside the temple grounds.

If you can't find the place, just ask the friendly folks where you drop off your sarong.
Best part entry is free.

Do check out the website for more info.
http://www.wonderfuljogja.com/visiting-prambanan-museum/

The museum is small so don't gripe if you don't see the mummies of King Tut is on display.
Since you are already in this part of the world, just check it out.


Food Stalls and Souvenir Bazaar

There are many food stalls at Prambanan temple.
As usual if you have a tender stomach, don't ever attempt street food, anywhere.
There will be more opportunity to check out other food places in this trip, so we didn't bother to stop.

The souvenir bazaar is something we would of enjoyed checking out, well at least for me, though. The place seemed more friendly compared to the likes of Malioboro Street where prices are cut throat and constant disturbance of beggars and street musicians.

Everything from t-shirts, key chain, batik were on display. Do check it out and drop a comment.


DON'T PANIC

Tour Guides

I would NOT recommend getting a tour guide here as the quality of guides here are pretty bad. Some require a written script to tell you things you can already observe. Others give their own take on the history and this is not necessarily a good thing. Try reading up a little before coming.


Sarong Wearing

Wearing of sarongs are required for both men and women. Get one at the visitor center. If you didn't take one, there is another small kiosk just before entering the temple grounds.

It's provided free but you have to return it. If does gets loose, just take two corners of it and tie it in a simple knot at your waist level. The friendly folks at the visitor center or the kiosk can do this for you. Just remember when in Rome, do what the Romans do.

Caucasian Tourist

During this trip, curious little children started staring at a few Caucasian folks.
They look pretty intrigued and even ask to take photos with some of them.

The children are pretty much harmless. They are just curious as they never seen any Caucasians before. Be polite and feel like a movie star.


Weather

The temple grounds is very sandy. For awhile it may even feel like you are visiting the Pyramids. The fact the sand is black makes it hot even on your soles.

Beat the weather by coming in the morning. Wear long sleeves, a hat and sunscreen. Check the latest weather forecast. The rain can totally shorten your trip.


The Shiva Temple And Flash Light

"Take this may it shine even in dark places."

While both the Vishnu and Brahma temple are in relatively safe condition, the Shiva temple is not. So visitors are required to wear safety helmets prior to entering. There is a queue which usually moves fast and each person is allotted 15-20 minutes to visit the Shiva temple grounds.

Bring a flash light, you need to illuminate the insides of the temple which is really dark even during the day. The Shiva temple houses the most number of statues including that of Ganesha. So a flash light will allow you to see more.


The Tourist Hunter

Now you may be wondering what do I mean by Tourist Hunter. Well anyone who are constantly on the look out for tourist and hound them to buy a service, souvenir or anything in particular.

Throughout this entire journey, I have seen a lot enthusiastic locals who constantly bug you to buy a souvenir. But here they seem pretty sedated. Maybe because it has been a long day and they pretty much worn out.

If you have no plans to buy, don't be curious because it is entirely impossible to shake them off. If you something strikes your fancy, always bargain. Prices are very negotiable. Negotiate from half the price they offered.

If they don't give the price you want, walk away. They will always come back. Remember be polite but firm. These guys are very persistent in selling you something.


Tipping Culture

Usually there is a tipping culture everywhere in Indonesia. People ask for tips even if you just them like 3 seconds.

There is no wrong or right here. If you like the service then tip them. If you do it then do it subtly and never flash cash. Keep your tipping cash safely somewhere you can reach for it.

MY FINAL THOUGHTS

I think it is definitely worth a visit. But I soon realize the experience is not much different from one temple to another. The reason being cultural similarity between Buddhism or Hinduism. If you had little time, Borobudur would be a better pick.