Java Pt5: The Black Sands of Mount Bromo

INTRODUCTION

Ask anyone in Singapore and probably half of them will reply they been to Mount Bromo.

It is probably one of the most visited places in Indonesia besides Bali.

The Bromo pilgrimage maybe a little overrated but you never know unless you try.

The sunrise is said to be stunning and attracts shutterbugs all year long.

The mountain erupted as recent as 2011. Danger has its attraction.

After what seemed like forever, we arrived at our hotel, The Lava View Lodge.

The van drive from the airport with one stop took almost 3 hours.

Half of it took us through steep, winding mountain roads. The tight space in the van did not help.

We were tired, crammed like sardines and it was cold. The time was 1130PM (local time).

THE JOURNEY

Taking the route from Surabaya, this was not an easy journey. It has narrow, winding and steep roads up to the mountain.

This is a useful mini-map from Lava View Lodge Hotel

THE STAY

Lava View Lodge Hotel

On this side of the mountain, the Lava View Lodge is a five-star accommodation. A former Indonesian president stayed here on his visit to Bromo, so we were told. However, what we found in our rooms were very basic.

TV which didn't work and two cushion chairs in the inside

Beds which were dusty and floor which was really sticky.

Two chairs to enjoy the view of the reception building.

The night was really cold and there wasn't hot water. We found out the next morning the hot water wasn't turned on. A simple call to the receptionist fixed that instantly.

Electric hot water but it was not working when we needed it the most.

A sink and mirror with an extremely sticky floor.

However, the best part of the hotel was the view, which we only noticed during the day. Mount Bromo was just at our doorstep.

Top: Reception building
Bottom: Hotel rooms

Bromo and Batok at our doorstep

The prices for the room is also not cheap. These are the prices as of 2013.

Standard Superior Twin/ Double costs IDR 634,000

Deluxe Double & Twin costs IDR 750,000

THE PLACE

Sunrise at Mount Pananjakan

3AM was by far the earliest we had to be up and running in the morning. The breakfast consisted of coffee, hard-boiled eggs, couple of sandwiches and a piece of fruit. All of which was much too heavy for 3AM.

In the next few minutes, we were loaded into a back of a Jeep in numbers of four. Then we were literally "spirited away" to Pananjakan. The drive was fun, I would say if it were not for my breakfast. I was nauseous and almost ready to puke. We were driving fast, bumping up and down, then at some points I could have sworn we were doing the "choku dori" drift.

Mount Pananjakan (or Penanjakan) is the viewpoint where everyone comes to see the sunrise.

Pananjakan stands at 2700 metres higher than Mount Bromo itself. It was cold and you need something warm to wear up here.

Our drifting Jeep arrived at the viewpoint parking. It was dark but we could see lights of other approaching Jeeps and motorcycles. The motorcycles are actually taxis bringing tourists called "ojek". As we walked towards the viewpoint, there were coffee shops to our right and there were hawkers/ touts loaning cold weather gears. It was needless to say, the place was crowded.

The viewpoint was also crowded. Shutterbugs of every level tried to stand at the very edge of the cliff to get a snap of the sunrise. Some risking life and limb by climbing over the safety barrier.

The sun does not rise in the direction of Mount Bromo but Mount Semeru. There are several mountains visible from this viewpoint including Mount Batok. The mist clears away and you will get full view of the plains down below and the next location we have to go.

Here are some photos of the sunrise. These are not my best photos in the dark.

Sea of Sands, Ponies and Staircase to Heaven

As the sun rises and mist clears, the crowd also dispersed. We spent a good an hour and half here. It is time to go to our next point. We walked back to our Jeep in fours and this time we drove slowly. In 5 minutes or so, we assembled on the sea of black sands of Bromo. The sand is black because it is made of volcanic sand. On a hot day, you can feel the heat of the earth underneath your feet.

The first thing I noticed (besides the obvious black sand, of course) are the ponies. I suddenly had the feeling that I am in some mountain range of South America. The ponies, to be exact, all had Spanish, names including names like Pablo, Alberto etc.

The jockeys will give you a ticket for a small price of IDR 30,000 to 50,000 for a return trip to the staircase leading to the peak of Bromo. It is advisable not to loose that ticket. The jockeys get annoyed if you do. This was my first time on a horse and I keep getting that weird feeling I am going fall off. This is quite normal especially if the ride is steep.

The pony ride stopped at the foot of Bromo's crater. The jockey and pony will wait for you here to take you back. The staircase will bring you to the rim of the crater. Remember your ticket.

On the rim of the crater, there are many tourists standing really close to the edge. This is unnecessary. The site or view of the crater itself is not really something you write home.

Smoke constantly comes from the crater. If you observe carefully, a lot of offerings rice and flowers lay scattered in the crater. Legend has it a queen who was childless started the tradition. Offerings rice and flowers were thrown into the mountain to improve fertility.

Smoke on water

Mount Batok has a unique terrain. It has terraces that start from the top all the way to the foot of the mountain. Batok is non-active volcano peak covered in Casuarina trees.

DON'T PANIC

Breakfast

There are times when you think you may run out of energy and you decide that eating 3AM in the morning would be a good idea. Trust me when I say it is not. I found this out the hard way.

Advice: Try something light like coffee and a snack bar. Take your breakfast during your usual hours to avoid nausea.

Pananjakan Viewpoint

There is a long queue at the toilet and do go before you come here. There are many coffee shops the way up here. Food choices are limited though. They can provide cup of hot coffee or some noodles.

It is cold here. Although there are, hawkers/touts that rent out warm clothing, you do not know where it has been. Bring some warm clothing. You will not need it for long especially if you are hiking.

THINGS I MISSED THAT YOU SHOULD CHECK OUT

Malang Route

There are two ways of getting to Mount Bromo. The first route was through Surabaya, which I took. There is another route to check out is through Malang.

Various tour groups recommend Malang as there is a beach, theme park and it costs a lot less than staying on top of Mount Bromo.

Pony Rides

Touts handle the ponies and like anywhere else in Indonesia, very aggressive salespersons.

A jockey will follow you guiding the pony but you can choose not to take the pony and just slowly walk. The hike itself is quite easy but I see most tourist struggle at the staircase.

Warm Clothing

Most part of this entire trip did not require for warm clothing. You could bring a sweater, pair of disposable gloves and do the clothes layering technique to keep warm. A face mask and a broad rim hat helps.

The Hindu Temple

Before reaching the foot of Bromo, there is a Hindu temple Pura Luhur Poten. I don't have much information about this temple except that it was built for the purpose of worshipping the mountain god. The practice of throwing flower and rice (which you will find hawkers selling at Bromo) started here.

Pura Luhur Poten Temple viewed from Bromo

Madakaripura Waterfall

Located at Kecamatan Lumbang, Probolinggo, Madakaripura is one of the waterfalls in the Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park. It takes about 1 hour or more to hike from Tongas.

The view is said to be amazing.

Seruni Point Hike

There is hiking option, which you could take from Seruni Village. Start as early as 2.45AM depending on the sunrise time. The trail advised by many is quite hard.

MY FINAL THOUGHTS

Don't put Bromo on your bucket list. Personally, I think the Ijen crater had more to offer and the sunrise in Borobudur was much more beautiful.